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Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby RobC on Tue Jul 08, 2014 2:18 pm

How do you guys get your coaches off the ground.

I bought a 4 ton floor jack that would NOT lift the whole ass end of the coach up but can lift one wheel at a time.

I asked my mechanic about how to change a tire on the road and he said "call roadside assistance". He knows I am know what I am doing but said it is a major pain in the ass on the side of the road.

Thinking about a set of bottle jacks to have at home but what did these things come with in terms of jacking equipment?

Also Jack stands. What size do you guys use?

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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby Acesneights on Tue Jul 08, 2014 4:46 pm

I use a 20 ton Blackhawk USA made bottle jack but I am a heavy truck mechanic . I would say a minimun of a 6 ton bottle jack but given most are made overseas junk even maybe a 10 ton. I don't trust the jackstands personally. I use big Oak blocks I got from a saw mill.
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby 77Travco on Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:14 am

I use a 30 ton bottle jack with a 12" x 12" piece of 3/4" thick board under it. Get the biggest jack stands that you can find from somewhere like Tractor Supply or Car Quest. I use a pair of 5 ton jack stands together on one side and also leave the bottle jack in place.
A ladder and a cheater pipe will help get the lugs loose and the fact that I weigh 230lbs doesn't hurt either. Remember that the right side will have reverse threads.
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby RobC on Thu Dec 11, 2014 2:17 pm

Got a set of bottle jacks a floor jack and a bunch of wood cribbing to get the beast off the ground. The bottle jacks move the rig up with no trouble at all.

I just realized I have no way of getting the lugs off. What size is the lug wrench? are there two separate wrenches for the duals (inner and outer)?.

I need some new rubber on two tires and decided I would paint the rims while I had the tires off.


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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby Acesneights on Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:40 pm

it is called a 1 1/2 inch budd wheel socket. Available online or any heavy truck parts supply like Fleetpride. NAPA might even have it.
I use a very big 3/4 drive IR gun but you can do it with a long breaker bar...just gonna take longer. You can use a jack stand to hold the extension. 77Travco posted a pic of how to do that above.
Of course I like Snap on but OTC makes a much cheaper alternative. Could probably get a used one from eBay.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... _ID=675686
The outer nut comes off first(1 1/2) then the innner square nut (13/16)
Bear in mind one side is left hand thread and one is right. I forget which is which but should be stamped on the square nut L or R
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby badbillybiker on Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:10 pm

I personally use a 20 ton air/over hydraulic bottle jack. My new 500 ft pound impact would only impact but would not loosen the nuts. Went up to a 1300 pound impact connected to a 1/2 or 5/8 air hose connectect with an adaptor to fit the compressor... Didn't hesistate in the removal then. I have a 3/4 Budd socket and they did run about $65.00 for one back in the day... believe they are about $95.00 per today. It is a forged unit with an opening to fit the nuts and internally (a bit deeper) a square hole for the stud) all in one socket...
If you snoop about your unit you might find the double ended lug wrench or bar with a square on one end and the other is for the nuts...and a long bar 3 to 4 foot long for leverage..in one of the side compartments... (Usually)
As the torque is 500 pounds, its quite a lot. Easier to call a tire truck out after selecting the correct tires and having them do the grunt work... Quite affordable.. I have had rears swapped from one Trav to another... and I think the price was in the day $70.00. Not worth the work...not counting the amount of words you would conjur up while doing it...
BTW... The Budd fits both the outside nuts and the rear inside studs/bolts. Unless someone lost or changed the nuts, they are stamped L & R for the left and right side threaded nuts. Work slowly and carefully...Theory back then was the counter tightening (L) would stop a loose nut from backing off. FWIT IMO... Subject to corrections by readers....
Orrrrrr... do it as pictured in the above presentation as posted by 77Travco
EEwwww... my feet ache just looking at doing it that way...
Light as a empty beer can and shaped like a bee, that travco flat tire aint getting any work from me...
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Last edited by badbillybiker on Fri Dec 12, 2014 1:13 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby 77Travco on Fri Dec 12, 2014 8:54 am

The service manual states the torque values at 450 ft lbs for the inner lug/studs and 500 ft lbs for the outer 1 1/2" nuts. In other words... these things are tight and will be quite a job to do without a big air impact. It is possible though, I did mine by hand when I did my rear brakes. I also like the idea of being able to change a flat by hand if needed.
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby badbillybiker on Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:18 am

I like the idea even better when I have a service truck doing the work...No need for me to change a tire. If it's a rear (and tubeless) I will run it out to a serviceable spot... or take it in and just buy a new one. If the front goes flat/blows out and you can steer it to the side of a road without crashing... (possibly with "safe steer") again, a service truck is wanted. I don't want to have a stroke or a heart attack over a dam tire anymore than having one shoveling snow...IMO...
I bascically am a interstate baby... Don't like turkey trails/back roads very much when Rv' ing
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby Acesneights on Fri Dec 12, 2014 8:29 pm

That;s why I have Triple A Gold rv coverage...lol
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby 77Travco on Mon Dec 15, 2014 4:49 pm

Acesneights wrote:That;s why I have Triple A Gold rv coverage...lol


I really need to check into that...
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