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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby badbillybiker on Mon Dec 15, 2014 5:30 pm

Triple a Gold... never heard of them. Cost and service effective as.... Camper World or.....Foretavel... or Good Sam???
Curious...
BBB
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby Jypsymoon on Thu Jul 16, 2015 8:42 pm

We just bought a 1965 m300 Travco. Trying to replace what looks to be the original tires.... 8r 17.5. We are putting on slightly more aggressive treads but same size. They were real tough to get off the front and seems like it will be near impossible to put new ones on... Is there a trick? Using a standard 4 ton floor jack. Appreciate any help.
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby 77Travco on Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:43 am

Jypsymoon wrote:We just bought a 1965 m300 Travco. Trying to replace what looks to be the original tires.... 8r 17.5. We are putting on slightly more aggressive treads but same size. They were real tough to get off the front and seems like it will be near impossible to put new ones on... Is there a trick? Using a standard 4 ton floor jack. Appreciate any help.

You mean the lug nuts were near impossible to break loose? Yea... I can believe that.
Do you see the pics that I posted in the 3rd post of this thread?... try that. I now use a 6 foot cheater bar. (you can buy them at tractor supply, etc) You will have to "bounce" on the bar to break em loose.
Caution, this is not an easy task and it may be easier (and safer) to have a tire truck come to you.
Also - I am curious... What tires did you find in the 17.5" size? I know there are members on this forum that will be interested to know.
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby RobC on Fri Jul 17, 2015 10:43 am

I finally got the budd socket but my air hammer wouldn't even budge the lug nuts last night. My compressor has a bad manifold valve so I was only running about 180 PSI but still....
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby Jypsymoon on Fri Jul 17, 2015 2:11 pm

No lug nuts came off ok it was actually wiggling the tire out past the fiberglass wheel well (was too low ) to easily get tires out and seems harder to get them back in.
Just came from tire shop the 8 r 17.5 I was going to put on( new) were so old they dry rot.... As you know very hard size to find .... Is there a comparable tire that will work??!! I'm supposed to do a show on Tuesday!
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby badbillybiker on Fri Jul 17, 2015 3:28 pm

like 77Travco's earlier post... tricks to remember...I had already gone thru some of those scenes and posted that a 1300 lb impact and a larger hose and a bigger compressor... A 500 pound gun wouldnt even shake the rust off the nuts. Posted to save repeating the same and arriving at the right solutions... thats why members post here to save others from repeating the same learning curve...
I like the idea of a 6 ft bar that could go into a sewer hose tube underneath the rear bumper for a good storage area...or
underneath the front in some clamping manner... Sure wouldnt fit into a side compartment...
Question... known length is six feet...what is the diameter/material (a re-bar??) of that bar????
BBB (still waiting for my brakes to be finished!)

On this forum is/are charts for determining the age of tires.
Beware of tire stores selling old stock still wrapped and shiny as "new"...If older than one year right off the shelf,
safest bet is to walk away as rv tire life is suggested at 5 years. Buying aged tires only increases the cost as
replacement is earlier and less years of safe life left...
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby 77Travco on Sun Jul 19, 2015 12:53 pm

If you search the internet for 8r17.5 tires, there is a place called "chicagotire.com" that seems to have them.
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby Dave78Chieftain on Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:24 pm

A little surprised you have 8R17.5 tires as Dodge really did not start using those until the RM300 chassis in 73. Dodge used 16" split rims pre-73 M300 chassis. I think that also applies to the P300 chassis used in the 60's.

P300 Front Single (5/8x18 thread size) 125-175lb torque
P300 Rear Dual (5/8x18 thread size) 175-200lb torque

M300 Front/rear (16" split rim) coned nut (5/8 x 18 thread size) 175 - 225lb torque (69 - 73)
M/RM/300 and M400 (RM350) Front/Rear (17.5" budd rim) flanged nut (5/8-18 thread size) 300-350lb torque (73 and later)
M375 Front/Rear (17" split rim) double Lock stud 400-450lb torque (69 - 73)
M500 (RM400) Front/Rear (19.5" budd rim) double Lock stud 400-450lb torque (73 and later)

100lbs of force applied to the end of a 4ft long cheater bar multiplies the force by a factor of 4
4ft cheater bar x 100lbs = 400lbs of torque
5ft cheater bar x 100lbs = 500lbs of torque
6ft cheater bar x 100lbs = 600lbs of torque (be careful not to over torque the nuts)

I weigh 150lbs so 150lbs at the end of a 4ft cheater bar = 600lbs of torque.
A 200lb man at the end of a 6ft cheater bar = 1200lbs of torque.

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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby KB2CRK on Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:21 am

That is why I have a 4' breaker bar....... At 260 lbs I can loosen and tighten with out to much issue.
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Re: Jacking and Wheel Removal

Unread postby Acesneights on Mon Jul 20, 2015 1:37 pm

What model is your Travco ? 270 ?
1975 Travco 270
1974 Travco 220 Parts unit
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