Jacking and Wheel Removal

[badbillybiker]

Triple a Gold... never heard of them. Cost and service effective as.... Camper World or.....Foretavel... or Good Sam???\nCurious...\nBBB

[Jypsymoon]

We just bought a 1965 m300 Travco. Trying to replace what looks to be the original tires.... 8r 17.5. We are putting on slightly more aggressive treads but same size. They were real tough to get off the front and seems like it will be near impossible to put new ones on... Is there a trick? Using a standard 4 ton floor jack. Appreciate any help.

[77Travco]

We just bought a 1965 m300 Travco. Trying to replace what looks to be the original tires.... 8r 17.5. We are putting on slightly more aggressive treads but same size. They were real tough to get off the front and seems like it will be near impossible to put new ones on... Is there a trick? Using a standard 4 ton floor jack. Appreciate any help.

\nYou mean the lug nuts were near impossible to break loose? Yea... I can believe that.\nDo you see the pics that I posted in the 3rd post of this thread?... try that. I now use a 6 foot cheater bar. (you can buy them at tractor supply, etc) You will have to "bounce" on the bar to break em loose. \nCaution, this is not an easy task and it may be easier (and safer) to have a tire truck come to you.\nAlso - I am curious... What tires did you find in the 17.5" size? I know there are members on this forum that will be interested to know.

[RobC]

I finally got the budd socket but my air hammer wouldn't even budge the lug nuts last night. My compressor has a bad manifold valve so I was only running about 180 PSI but still....

[Jypsymoon]

No lug nuts came off ok it was actually wiggling the tire out past the fiberglass wheel well (was too low ) to easily get tires out and seems harder to get them back in. \nJust came from tire shop the 8 r 17.5 I was going to put on( new) were so old they dry rot.... As you know very hard size to find .... Is there a comparable tire that will work??!! I'm supposed to do a show on Tuesday!

[badbillybiker]

like 77Travco's earlier post... tricks to remember...I had already gone thru some of those scenes and posted that a 1300 lb impact and a larger hose and a bigger compressor... A 500 pound gun wouldnt even shake the rust off the nuts. Posted to save repeating the same and arriving at the right solutions... thats why members post here to save others from repeating the same learning curve...\nI like the idea of a 6 ft bar that could go into a sewer hose tube underneath the rear bumper for a good storage area...or\nunderneath the front in some clamping manner... Sure wouldnt fit into a side compartment...\nQuestion... known length is six feet...what is the diameter/material (a re-bar??) of that bar????\nBBB (still waiting for my brakes to be finished!)\n\nOn this forum is/are charts for determining the age of tires.\nBeware of tire stores selling old stock still wrapped and shiny as "new"...If older than one year right off the shelf, \nsafest bet is to walk away as rv tire life is suggested at 5 years. Buying aged tires only increases the cost as \nreplacement is earlier and less years of safe life left...

[77Travco]

If you search the internet for 8r17.5 tires, there is a place called "chicagotire.com" that seems to have them.

[Dave78Chieftain]

A little surprised you have 8R17.5 tires as Dodge really did not start using those until the RM300 chassis in 73. Dodge used 16" split rims pre-73 M300 chassis. I think that also applies to the P300 chassis used in the 60's.\n\nP300 Front Single (5/8x18 thread size) 125-175lb torque\nP300 Rear Dual (5/8x18 thread size) 175-200lb torque\n\nM300 Front/rear (16" split rim) coned nut (5/8 x 18 thread size) 175 - 225lb torque (69 - 73)\nM/RM/300 and M400 (RM350) Front/Rear (17.5" budd rim) flanged nut (5/8-18 thread size) 300-350lb torque (73 and later)\nM375 Front/Rear (17" split rim) double Lock stud 400-450lb torque (69 - 73)\nM500 (RM400) Front/Rear (19.5" budd rim) double Lock stud 400-450lb torque (73 and later)\n\n100lbs of force applied to the end of a 4ft long cheater bar multiplies the force by a factor of 4 \n4ft cheater bar x 100lbs = 400lbs of torque\n5ft cheater bar x 100lbs = 500lbs of torque\n6ft cheater bar x 100lbs = 600lbs of torque (be careful not to over torque the nuts)\n\nI weigh 150lbs so 150lbs at the end of a 4ft cheater bar = 600lbs of torque.\nA 200lb man at the end of a 6ft cheater bar = 1200lbs of torque.\n\nDave

[KB2CRK]

That is why I have a 4' breaker bar....... At 260 lbs I can loosen and tighten with out to much issue.

[Acesneights]

What model is your Travco ? 270 ?