Power Convertor

Post here for living area electrical.
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Travco Model: 1975 270,1974 220
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Power Convertor

Unread post by Acesneights » Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:21 pm

Well the one that is in here no worky...Not putting out any jiuce. Man this thing is old and heavy. I have a newer one from a 1990 Travel Trailer I bought for 300$ to harvest for parts. The new convertor has a circuit panel but I chose not to use it and use the existing Travco glass fuse block. it works fine and has easy access.\nAlso this Travco does not have a Perko Battery switch. It only has a on off switch on the dash o connect/disconnect the battery via a solenoid. I don't like it. I have a Perko switch in the parts Travco. I like the Perko switch because when stationary you can run off one battery then use the other one to Start the rig in the Morning .
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1977 Travco 270 Elite\n1974 Travco 220 Parts unit

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Re: Power Convertor

Unread post by frank-id » Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:09 pm

A converter is like a battery changer. The average converter will create about 60 amps. The difference between outputs in amps is time. All converters will charge a battery. Most converters have one small defect as converters will charge a battery until it melts. Battery condition must be monitored. A battery voltage measured with any volt meter should show at least 12.6 volts. A battery showing 12.0 volts is 75% discharged.\nLead acid batteries can make 2.1 volts per cell and like a long slow charge, but occasionally an over voltage to clean up lead that has flaked off the grid inside the battery. A good voltmeter is a valuable tool. An ampmeter has zero/no value and can make a bad fire. Auto reset circuit breakers are fire starters. The best circuit breakers are manual reset as in some boats and aircraft. Planning the electrical systems in an RV requires electrical understanding. I install a switch for my converters. Inverters are a super great addition to any RV.\nFrank

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Re: Power Convertor

Unread post by Acesneights » Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:08 pm

The new One I put in is supposed to be 3 stage self regulating or something like that.\nThe one I took out is a relic. Weighed a ton too.
1977 Travco 270 Elite\n1974 Travco 220 Parts unit

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Re: Power Convertor

Unread post by Acesneights » Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:32 am

OK follow up.\nTurns out my batt was dead. But why ? I am plugged in ??\nThe Power Convertor is not doing it's job. Problem is I think I have it wired wrong. I thing the big lug on it that I tied into the Travco's 12v distribution panel is actually only a 3 amp charger line for the batt and that all the circuits in the Travco have to be wired to the Convertors internal fuse block. That will require a major rewire. I may just cut the Convertor out of my 1970. it's a progressive Dynamic but the problem is it is a 1970 Convertor and I do not believe it provides "filtered" power and I am not sure if that will be an issue with the newer Appliances I have added such as the Fridge and Water Heater both of which have circuit boards.\nI am not sure what to do...\nThe Convertor I am using right now came out of an 80's Sunline Travel Trailer. I could not find a Manual for it anywhere on line and in fact found many people online looking for the same thing.Parralex took them over. I may give them a call Monday but I am pretty sure that is what I did and why it's not doing it's job.\nAnybody know how important "filtered" power is ?\nThe original Convertor only had two wires coming out. + and -. I think that the batt is tied to the dist panel where as the older Progresive convertor I want to use there is a sep wire for the batt and two cicuits for the dist panel.\nThe Magnetek has the dist fuse panel built in. so I would have to run the wires from the existing dist panels to the other side of the camper and I did not read good things about the Magentek anyway so I wuld rather use the Progressive Dyn even though it's 43 yrs old, it has stood the ret of time. But it does not supply filtered voltage...\nSo I finally pulled out the Magnetek and bought this...\nIt has worked out very well and was an easy install. It allowed me to leave the Travco's house wiring intact. I did buy the Charge wizard. Worth the extra 20$(off eBay).\nhttp://www.adventurerv.net/power-converter-int ... -5026.html
1977 Travco 270 Elite\n1974 Travco 220 Parts unit

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Re: Power Convertor

Unread post by RobC » Wed Dec 17, 2014 1:31 pm

I have the original power converter that works. I plugged it in last night to see if the charging system was working and Presto! chassis batt went from 12.15 volts to 12.47 in about 2 hours. \n\nMy converter got slightly warm on the outside. Easy to touch and to me is no big deal. Is a bit of heat coming off the transformer normal. It also made a very quiet humming sound.\n\nMy issue is that it looks like my chassis bat and house batt were wired together with no switch in between. Was there an electrical set up (my coach is a 1976) that had the converter charge (and ostensibly use) both batteries when parked and hooked to AC?\n\nThe chassis battery is a standard 12 pb storage and I have a 12 volt deep cycle I want to use. it looks all set up to simply wire the two in series. Something weird about that though \n\n12 volt chassis/start bat wired in series with a deep cycle?\n\nHelp\n\nI will grab some pictures today.\n\nRob

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Re: Power Convertor

Unread post by RobC » Wed Dec 17, 2014 1:34 pm

Also, the general wiring diagrams I have from the tech documents page show the two systems as separate where the Alternator charges the Chassis battery and the converter charges the deep cycle which then runs the DC house system.\n\nRobC

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Re: Power Convertor

Unread post by badbillybiker » Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:19 pm

I have a Progressive and Triad inverter nfo plus others. \nWill post them as I zip them for UL... This first is the progressive. HTH\nBBB\nJust added the second on Triads... HTH\nBBB\nand two more... HTH\nBBB
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Re: Power Convertor

Unread post by 77Travco » Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:02 am

@ RobC...\n\nI have a 1977 270. My alternator charge wire goes to a battery isolator on the passenger side of the engine. Then one wire goes to the engine battery and another wire to the house battery. This setup prevents the converter (house charger) from backfeeding into the alternator.\n\nThe only time that you would ever wire any batteries in series is if you are using 6 volt batts for the house. Some consider two 6 volt deep cycle batteries in series a superior setup (I do as well) but two 12 volt deep cycle batts in parallel will work just fine. I currently just have one 12 volt deep cycle battery for my house DC system.

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Re: Power Convertor

Unread post by RobC » Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:43 pm

Thanks guys.\n\nI have a serious Jerry rigged situation then.\n\nI think I am just going to start over and separate the two systems completely. I am not worried about the chassis battery dying on me. my alternator works just fine. I do NOT want to somehow have the chassis battery running the house even if it is getting charged by the converter.\n\nRobC

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Re: Power Convertor

Unread post by RobC » Thu Dec 18, 2014 3:01 pm

Also, I assume the slight warmth of the converter is OK? I also assume every body leaves them plugged in and when on AC at the camp site it runs continuously?\n\nRob

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